And just like that…#037- #041

I'm home

Five weeks ago, I set off on my ‘Gap Yaar’—a 30-day jaunt through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. And just like that, it’s over. I’m home. The adventure has come and gone. Christmas is around the corner. No more shorts, T-Shirts or factor 50. No more 32-degree heat or shivering in over-air-conditioned buses, hotels and restaurants.

I wanted to share the essence of my trip today, but I’m struggling. I kept a journal whilst I was away, as any aspiring writer might. Well, “journal”—it was the Notes app on my iPhone, which sometimes made me look like a surly teenager glued to their screen while local guides shared their knowledge.

This morning, I dumped all 14,500 words into a Word document. That’s going to need some serious editing. So, here’s a stream of consciousness instead.

Where do I start?

Fellow travellers

The 30-day trip involved three groups.

I met the first in Bangkok: our guide ‘9,’ a former monk and beautiful soul, led 15 travellers—seven Canadians, six Americans, one Australian and one other Brit. Four of us stayed the whole course: Marvellous Mary, a 77-year-old ex-ballet dancer and physician from Portland, whose energy, intellect and curiosity outpaced us all. Stylish Pascale, a 67-year-old Frenchwoman with a Manhattan twang, who has lived in New York since her band road-manager days in the '80s. And ‘CIA’ Bill, a self-contained, ex-radio DJ from Canada traveling solo searching to find a new country for him and his wife to call home.

At 60, I was surprised to find I was in the youngest third in our group—not what I’d expected. Once I overcame my (shameful) ageism, I realized our connective tissue wasn’t age but life experience. Unsurprisingly, Trump’s re-election news sent a chill through my American and Canadian buddies; fortunately, that was the only news I allowed myself to hear the whole 30 days.

In Vietnam, a new guide, Ashley, and a new group of 10 outward-looking, fun, intelligent souls joined us. A special nod to the effervescent Dubliner Sallyanne (looking forward to that Guinness Sallyanne!) and her gentle, droll husband Brian.

The third group? Well, maybe I was over meeting new people by then, but the special magic that had glued earlier groups together just wasn’t there. Thank goodness for the adhesive that was Mary, Pascale and Bill.

Sights, smells, activities

It’s impossible to visit Southeast Asia without being overwhelmed by sights, smells and experiences. Here are a few of mine.

My first night alone before meeting the group in Bangkok’s Chinatown was hot, aromatic, daunting and bustling as I dared myself to eat street food (absolutely delicious!).

Throughout the trip, I marvelled at the vibrant temples, stupas and mythical sculptures. I was jarred by the juxtaposition of sleek skyscrapers and rickety, stilted homes just outside the city boundaries. The cities of Bangkok, Hanoi and Hoi Chi Minh City were congested with cars and thousands of motorbikes making crossing the road a fearful art form. Cramped alleys were filled with exotic foods, fruits and massage parlours. The spotless, efficient metro in Bangkok put the London Underground to shame. The incredible, at times sensual, foot and body massages liberating. The overnight trains from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and Hanoi to Hue an experience in military precision (the first one) and a strict travelling class system (the second).

The elegance and grace of the elephants in Luang Prabang’s rescue sanctuary was moving. The solemn, saffron robed monks collecting ‘offerings’ from the public at sunrise was spiritual yet I felt uneasy about the young novice monks—some entrusted to the monastery for weeks, others for years.

Cruising the Mekong River brought peace and solitude for two days as we drifted through a massive waterway that flows from China and links all four countries we visited.

In Ha Long Bay, I struggled with the overt commercialism as hundreds of boats bearing tourists raced to claim their spot, whilst recognizing I was part of the problem. Yet, as the sunset turned to sunrise, the bay’s natural beauty was breath-taking.

I cherished my early-morning walks, skipping breakfast to explore local streets and coffee shops. Parks full of locals stretching, dancing, walking, running, meditating, practicing Tai Chi. Shared street side breakfasts of noodles and laughter. I wasn’t a fan of the Vietnamese coffee—lukewarm, thick, syrupy—but iced with condensed milk and salt? Addictive.

I was chilled by Laos’s “silent war,” a cruel offshoot of America’s futile Vietnam War. The bravery of the Vietnamese, fighting their enemy from suffocating tunnels. The unimaginable horrors of Pol Pot’s Cambodia.

In Hue, riding pillion on a moped ride brought an unexpected sense of freedom as we sped to see temples, villages, markets and craftspeople with a refreshing wind in my face.

Angkor Wat? No superlatives suffice. Immense, elegant, extraordinary. A spiritual tapestry of gods, kings, warriors, demons. How on earth was this city built over 1,000 year ago?

And Ta Prohm Temple (the ‘Tomb Raider’ Temple and the first picture above) a shrine perhaps to the enduring supremacy of nature over man.

A changing world

Everywhere, particularly in Laos, the creeping presence of China’s influence loomed large, funding infrastructure and reshaping landscapes. Change is palpable. Capitalism is here to stay as communism (in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia) adapts to market forces.

What’s next?

For now I have been catapulted back into Christmas, Band Aid 40 and festive fun, then who knows?

There’s a whole world left to see.

But how about you, what adventures do you have planned? What’s on your must see travel list? You are never going to be younger than you are today so what are you waiting for?

Until next week, my friends.

Ruth x

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