“Focus on the shore, pick a landmark, and don’t look down”.
Let me explain…
Did you know there’s a man-made surf lake just outside Bristol? No, nor did I until my physio, Dave, told me about his sore shoulder from surfing at the weekend. Naturally I asked where he’d been, confident he was going to say Devon or Cornwall. I was taken aback when he said Bristol.
Normally, I would have dismissed a ‘surf pool’ as entertainment for kids, but Dave, a 30 something, 6foot 2inch, fit looking Aussie who seemed to know his rips from his breaks, captured my attention.
I was intrigued. Why? Well, I only have a ‘surf, soul retreat’ holiday1 coming up in November and contrary to the fact I was brought up in North Devon close to the wonderful surf beaches of Croyde and Saunton, a surfer I am not.
My inability was confirmed some 17 or so years ago when I did a 3 day surf school in Croyde. It was miserable. Grey, rainy, cold and knackering. By day 3, my pecs were so sore from attempting to haul myself up on the board I could barely push open a car door.
Suffice to say, as my two friends and I approached Bristol’s ‘Wave’ last Tuesday, I was not optimistic about my chances of getting up on the board. As we made our way into the complex my anticipation and nerves increased as we surveyed the number of camper vans in the car park and dudes walking or skateboarding to the entrance with surfboards under their arms
The surf complex has two massive triangular shaped wave pools separated by a walkway which serves as a look out point for the lifeguards. The back of each pool is known as the Reef, the front area, the Bay. Advanced surfers catch the waves in the Reef, novices, us, catch the same waves as they break into the Bay. Each hour session generates about 20 sets of 20 waves, a brief lull between each set.
Half an hour later, suitably wet-suited, we three, and seven or so blokes, were receiving our safety briefing and ‘pop up’ technique from the lovely surf instructors, Tom and Laura.
It was a battle to walk out. If you’ve played or swum in the sea you’ll be familiar with that disarming, unbalancing undercurrent as the waves suck out before charging in.
Where the Reef meets the Bay we turned our boards, ready to launch. As the wave rushed towards me, I started rehearsing all we’d been told…toes over the end, arms under shoulders, paddle paddle paddle, keep looking forward, push chest up, then explosively power legs through into a ‘warrior two’ like position as you glide up to the beach. Not!
For the first five or so attempts I managed an inelegant bodyboard at best but mostly rolled straight off the board as the churn of the break dragged me under. Frustrating if not totally unexpected. Galvanised by Claire’s successful ride, my competitive side to the fore, I asked Tom where I was going wrong:
“Where are you looking?” he asked,
Immediately I knew I’d forgotten his coaching nugget,
“Focus on the shore, pick a landmark, and don’t look down”.
Bingo! It was all I needed. Next wave, I was on my knees, feet through, then up! What a thrill as I glided in towards the shore. It may have only been for seconds but I’d done it. Confidence high the rest of the session was a satisfying mix of wipe outs and (short, very short, periods of) standing.
By the end of the session, we were exhausted, exhilarated and beaming. Buoyed by our success and keen to ‘go’ again we’re already planning a return trip with an overnight stay in the campervan in the adjoining campsite. Our experience a classic example of pushing ourselves and each other out of our comfort zone. It would have been easier not to go, too old, not fit enough, long way to go for 90 minutes surfing, other stuff to do…the normal excuses. But it’s true, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
You
As ever, my thoughts turn to you. A day I could easily have passed on gave me much - the anticipation, the doing, the reflections, the memories. Surfing may not be your thing, but whatever your thing is, what’s stopping you giving it a go? And do your excuses really pass muster? After all, you’re never going to be younger than you are today, what are you waiting for, really?
Until next week my friends,
Ruth x
Thank you for reading 1000Weeks. Why not join in the conversation by leaving a comment. Or leave me a like, subscribe or share this piece with someone who might enjoy it. I really do appreciate your support, thank you.
You may well hear more about this holiday in due course…
I have surfed Croyde and it is brutal. There is no feeling in the world like being pinned to the sea bed by a succession of powerful waves.
The Bristol set-up sounds much more like it.
I am sure the looking up and at the beach technique could be an analogy but it escapes me for now.
Hi Ruth, well done for attempting this, getting back on the board, going out of your comfort zone. Your adventure resonates with me this week as I had an accident on a descent on my bike in the Pyrenees last week, it was scary, 6 stitches in my arm, slightly concussed, bruised, feeling old. BUT I had a rest day and then got back on my saddle for a shorter ride as I needed to move on from it. I could have told myself I was too old, not a good enough cyclist! etc.... (a few people did say this to me!)
I am still feeling battered, at my desk but off to Mallorca next week for a few more days cycling. The other option is to sit on the sofa and let the old lady in (and I would rather take a measured risk and go for it with type 2 fun !)
Keep challenging yourself Ruth, the smile on your picture says it all, Lou x